MONET, NAPIER & TRIFARI: The History of Vintage Gold Jewellery & Where to Find It

Written By Emsy .

Here's a secret the best-dressed women have always known: it's the gold that does the talking.

A chunky earring. A knot at the collarbone. A brooch pinned exactly where nobody expects it. You can wear the simplest black dress in the room, and if the jewellery is right, people will remember you. The thrill? These three American houses made that kind of gold for decades, and you can still find it for less than a dinner out. Treasure hunting doesn't get more satisfying than this.

THE STORY

Napier is the oldest of the three. It began in 1878 in North Attleboro, Massachusetts, as the E. A. Bliss Company, making gilt watch chains for men. The company moved to Meriden, Connecticut, in 1890. James Napier joined in 1914, became president in 1920, and the company was renamed The Napier Co. in 1922. Over the decades it made everything from Egyptian-inspired cobras to bold, modern geometric designs.

Trifari was founded by Gustavo Trifari in the early 20th century. Its designs became famous through the French designer Alfred Philippe, who had also worked for Van Cleef & Arpels. Trifari brought the polish of fine jewellery to costume pieces, and Mamie Eisenhower famously wore Trifari pearls to both of her inaugural balls.

Monet was founded in 1919 by brothers Michael and Joseph Chernow, who started out in monogramming. In 1934 they hired designer Edmond Mario Granville, who had a background at Cartier and stayed until 1969. By the 1970s, Monet had made "tailored jewellery" a must: gold- and silver-plated pieces with no stones, made to be worn every single day.

SIGNATURE PIECES

  • Monet: gold clip-on earrings, knots, chains and clean, polished shapes.

  • Napier: bold, sculptural necklaces, collars, bracelets and charm-style pieces.

  • Trifari: elegant brooches, pearls and the famous 1940s "Jelly Belly" animal pins.

FUN FACTS

  • Napier started out making men's watch chains in 1878.

  • Monet's founders started out in monogramming before jewellery.

  • The Monet name didn't appear on its jewellery before 1955, so an unsigned piece may be older.

  • Trifari's 1940s Jelly Belly pins had a Lucite "belly" in the centre.

  • Mamie Eisenhower wore Trifari pearls to both of her inaugural balls.

WHO IT'S FOR 90s Supermodel · Power Dresser · Quiet Luxury These houses are for every woman who wants a polished finish without a fine-jewellery price. Maximalists stack them. Minimalists choose one perfect gold earring and let it shine.

HOW I'D WEAR IT

For a gallery afternoon, I'd let the jewellery be the art. A plum silk blouse with a Napier gold collar layered right over it, a Trifari cameo pinned at the shoulder and Monet knot earrings. Then emerald corduroy wide-leg trousers, chocolate croc-embossed block-heel loafers and a mustard leather shoulder bag. Plum and emerald are a moody, jewel-box pairing, and the gold makes them glow. My rule still stands: one statement piece at a time, unless the outfit is very, very simple. Here, the outfit is the canvas.

HOW TO FIND IT VINTAGE

Search terms:

  • "vintage Monet gold clip on earrings"

  • "vintage Monet knot earrings"

  • "Napier gold collar necklace"

  • "vintage Napier chunky bracelet"

  • "Trifari brooch vintage"

  • "Trifari pearl necklace vintage"

Tips:

  • Turn it over. Most pieces are signed on the back or clasp.

  • Check the gold plating for wear, especially on the edges and the back of clip-ons.

  • Clip-on earrings can be converted to pierced by a jeweller if you prefer.

  • Ask whether the clips still close firmly.

IF YOU LOVE THESE HOUSES, ALSO SEE… St. John · Escada · Whiting & Davis

Sources:

Emsy .
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