Escada: History, Signature Pieces & How to Find It Vintage
Escada by Margaretha Ley campaign, 1992 (via Pinterest).
The first time I really looked at an 80s Escada blazer, I understood something about myself. Gold buttons. Shoulders that mean business. A colour so rich it looks like it has its own spotlight. It's the kind of piece that doesn't ask permission, and lately I've been learning not to ask permission either.
The story
Escada began in Munich as a knitwear business in 1976, and the Escada label itself launched in 1978. The founders were Margaretha Ley and her husband, Wolfgang.
Margaretha was a Swedish former model who had worked as a house model for Jacques Fath and Christian Dior. She trained with a royal court tailor in Stockholm, and she wanted to design, not just wear, beautiful clothes. She became Escada's head designer, and her signature was colour: bright, confident colour that she linked to the muted northern light of her Swedish childhood.
The growth was fast. Escada entered the US in 1981, went public in 1986, and by the early 1990s was dressing women "from head to toe", with more than 1,200 pieces including jewellery, handbags, gloves, scarves and shoes. Margaretha Ley died in 1992, and the house carried on under a series of creative directors. Escada Sport launched in 1995.
It hasn't all been smooth. Escada filed for insolvency in 2009 and again in 2020, changing owners along the way. But the label is still designing today, and its own description of itself hasn't changed much: rich colour, luxurious quality and boldness.
Signature pieces
1990, Model Beverly Peele, Escada.
The power blazer: strong shoulders, gold or jewelled buttons, often in jewel tones.
The skirt suit: matching jacket and skirt, made to be worn to the boardroom and to lunch after.
Bold knits: a nod to the company's knitwear roots, often embellished.
Printed silk blouses: loud prints, worn with confidence.
Head-to-toe accessories: scarves, belts and bags made to finish the look.
Fun facts
The name came from a racehorse. The Leys named the brand after an Irish thoroughbred they liked to bet on.
Royal approval: Princess Diana wore an Escada coat to Berlin in 1987.
Oscar night: Kim Basinger wore an Escada gown when she won her Oscar in 1998.
It once owned St. John: Escada bought an 80% stake in St. John Knits in 1989, so two of my favourite vintage labels were once family.
Supermodel era: in the 90s, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford all appeared in Escada campaigns.
Who it's for
90s Supermodel · Power Dresser · Maximalist
Escada is for the woman who wants to be seen, and who'd rather wear one unforgettable jacket than ten forgettable ones. If you love colour, structure and a little drama, this is your house. If you're a quiet-luxury minimalist, look at its solid-colour tailoring rather than the prints.
How I'd wear it
I'd take one vintage Escada blazer in a jewel tone and wear it with a fitted black top, straight-leg jeans or a black mini, pointed heels and big gold earrings. I'd skip the full 80s matching set and let the jacket be the one loud thing. That's how vintage looks current instead of costume.
How to find it vintage
Search terms:
"vintage Escada blazer"
"Escada by Margaretha Ley" (labels from her era)
"80s Escada suit"
"Escada silk blouse"
"Escada Sport vintage"
"Laurel blazer vintage" (Laurel was Escada's lower-priced sister label from the early 80s, a smart way to get the look for less)
Tips:
80s and 90s sizing runs small and shoulders run big. Check the measurements, not the size.
Look closely at the buttons in photos. They're often part of the value.
Silk and embellished pieces should be dry cleaned. Ask about stains and missing beads before buying.
If you love Escada, also see…
St. John (once part of the Escada family) · Moschino Cheap and Chic · Ferragamo
Style is where I practise being brave first: wearing the colour, taking up the space, trusting my own eye. If you're ready to move on the bigger things in your life too, that's what my MOVE sessions are for.
XOXO,
Emsy 💕
Sources:
Escada (Wikipedia) · Escada: the brand · Escada AG company history · mivision: The fashion house with the inside running · FashionUnited: Everything you need to know about Escada
