St. John: History, Signature Pieces & How to Find It Vintage

Written By Emsy .

Some women walk into a room and you notice the colour. Others walk in and you notice that nothing is out of place, even at six in the evening after a full day. St. John was made for the second woman.

The more I refine my own style, the more I want to be both.

St. John collection, royal purple santana knit, 2 pcs skirt suit

The story
In 1962, Marie St John was a 25-year-old model in Los Angeles who couldn’t find the dress she wanted, so she made it herself. She hand-knit a simple straight skirt with a matching short-sleeved top. When other models asked to buy them, she bought a knitting loom for $450.

Her fiancé, Robert Gray, was an apparel salesman. He took her samples to retailers and came back with orders for 84 dresses. He borrowed $5,000, bought more looms and rented space, and the two of them filled the order with help from family. They married and incorporated the company in 1963. Marie designed, and Robert ran production, sales and the business.

They made everything themselves in Southern California, from the yarn to the finished piece, rather than sending production overseas. First-year sales were $92,000. By 1994, they were close to $128 million.

In 1989, Escada agreed to buy a majority stake in St. John and used the money to open the brand’s own boutiques, starting in Palm Desert and then on Fifth Avenue in New York. When Escada ran into trouble, it sold its stake, and St. John went public in 1993.

Their daughter, Kelly Gray, started at the company at 12, became its signature model as a teenager, and rose to creative director. St. John is still designing today and calls itself an American luxury house.

Signature pieces

  • The knit suit: a fitted jacket with a matching skirt or trousers, in a smooth knit that holds its shape.

  • Knit-in hems: the hem is knitted into the fabric rather than sewn, a quiet sign of the real thing.

  • Statement buttons: the company once cast its buttons in-house, and they’re often the jewellery of the outfit.

  • Bold primary colours: red, cobalt and black alongside ivory, worn as one strong colour head to toe.

  • Evening knits: embellished and beaded versions made for dinner and events.

Fun facts

  • It began with a $450 loom. Marie bought it because her friends kept asking for her hand-knit skirts.

  • Its first big order was 84 dresses, which the founders filled with help from relatives.

  • It was once part of the Escada family. Escada bought a majority stake in 1989, which is why I love reading these two houses side by side.

  • Kelly Gray was its signature model from her teens before becoming creative director.

  • The modern faces were supermodels and stars: Gisele Bündchen in 2005, Angelina Jolie from 2005 to 2010, and Kate Winslet in 2011.

Who it’s for
Power Dresser · Quiet Luxury · Polished Professional
St. John is for the woman who wants to look finished without trying too hard. It suits the traveller, the boardroom, the lunch that turns into dinner. If you love drama, choose an embellished evening piece or a bold red suit. If you love minimalism, choose black or ivory and let the fit and the buttons do the talking.

How I’d wear it
I’d take a vintage St. John knit jacket in cobalt or red and break up the suit. I’d wear the jacket with straight-leg jeans or a black slip skirt, pearl earrings and pointed pumps, and keep the matching skirt for a day when I want the full power look. It’s the easiest vintage to wear because the knit is so forgiving and so polished.

How to find it vintage
Search terms:

  • “vintage St. John knit suit”

  • “St. John by Marie Gray” (labels from the founder’s era)

  • “St. John Collection jacket”

  • “St. John Evening knit”

  • “vintage St. John red knit suit” or “cobalt”

Tips:

  • Check the hem. A knit-in hem is a good sign.

  • Look closely at the buttons in photos. Missing or replaced buttons lower the value.

  • Knits can pill or snag, so ask for close-up photos of the elbows, underarms and seat.

  • Sizing is numeric and the knit has some give, but always check the measurements.

If you love St. John, also see…
Escada (once its parent company) · Ferragamo · Monet, Napier and Trifari for the gold jewellery

Style is where I practise being brave first: wearing the colour, taking up the space, trusting my own eye. If you’re ready to move on the bigger things in your life too, that’s what my MOVE sessions are for.

XOXO,

Emsy 💕

Sources (link each one):

Emsy .
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Escada: History, Signature Pieces & How to Find It Vintage